LETS
 Search
Friday, July 25, 2008 ..:: Forum ::.. Register  Login
 Dubai Astronomy Forum Minimize
Search Forum Home 
 
     
  Astronomy instruments  Telescopes  Filters...
 
 
 Filters 
 
 
bassamz
6 posts
Filters 
Posted: 24 Dec 07 10:16 AM
  
What is the actual benefit(s) of using planetry and lunar filters? Would there noticable viewing improvements once filters are used?
 
 
host
32 posts
Re: Filters 
Posted: 29 Dec 07 11:49 AM
  

How and Why to use Color Filters

by Jeff Medkeff
images provided by Maurizio Di Sciullo

Colored filters have a long history of use among planetary observers. For the better part of a century, they were considered essential equipment, and publications routinely specified their use. Large, professionally funded observing projects were even completed in order to find the best color bandpasses for various targets. The use of broad bandpass colored filters became a standard technique in astronomy. Unfortunately, as the 20th century's planetary science techniques have diverged farther and farther from the 19th century's visual astronomy methods, the use and application of colored filters is not always well understood in modern times. So we'll have a look here at the question of what color filters do, why they work, and, most importantly, how to use them.

Color filters work on a simple principle: they exclude some wavelengths of light from the telescopic image, while allowing other wavelengths through. The areas in the image that are bright in the excluded wavelengths get darker, while the areas that are of a color that is let through stays roughly as bright as without a filter. This increases the contrast - the difference in brightness - between the two areas of different color.

The canonical example used in photography courses is that of a red apple laying in green grass, photographed with black and white film. If the photographer uses no filter, the apple will be quite difficult to distinguish from the grass by its brightness - only its texture and shape will make it discernable. If a red filter is used, the apple will look almost white and the grass almost black. If a blue filter is used instead, the grass will be almost white and the apple almost black. By intelligently selecting the proper color filter, the photographer can control the contrast of the image that is produced.

Astronomers using color filters visually attempt to do something similar. The color contrasts on the planets are not as dramatic as the color contrast between a red apple and green grass. While the eye is a very good detector of contrast, it is not always very good at detecting subtle differences in color, especially on bright and glaring objects. The goal of using a color filter is usually to be able to see something that would be otherwise completely invisible, or to be able to see something which is already visible even more clearly than without the filter.

In this discussion, we are therefore talking about a contrast of intensity. For the numerically inclined, contrast is computed by:

b  -  b'  /  b

Where b is the brightness of one area and b' the brightness of the other. One common way of quickly measuring contrast is by taking the average value of several closely-spaced pixels in a CCD image as the brightness of the first feature, and the average for several more pixels showing the second feature, and plugging the values in to the above. (By doing this, we are measuring contrast in its original sense - we are not measuring how sharp an image is or how detailed it is.) We'll do this with an image of Mars below, and, in a later version of this page, Jupiter will be added to the analysis.

A Planetary Case Study

To offer an example of how colored filters work on the planets, Maurizio Di Sciullo has kindly given permission to use images of Mars he took during the 1999 apparition, and provided the original FITs format images for our use. I've taken the images and processed them to fit our needs, as you will see below. Some of the processing is pretty severe, and that's my doing, not Maurizio's. (To see his original work, click on his name.) None of the raw images that Maurizio supplied were processed to increase their contrast or resolution (i.e., I did no unsharp masking or anything of that nature), but as you will see a few images were processed to degrade the quality.

The 1999 apparition was not a very favorable one, but Maurizio's shot looks pretty good to me:

If you had very excellent seeing, and an extremely high quality telescope of sufficient aperture, you might be able to discern something approaching this view of Mars visually. But in reality, it is rare to get anything approaching this kind of view of the planet even in an entire lifetime. Mars is simply a tough object to observe. Most of the time, with most telescopes, you will get to see something like this - complete with veiling glare from atmospheric and instrumental scattering (please walk halfway across the room and view this from a distance of several feet or a few meters to really get the effect):

Pretty ugly, eh? But we'll assume you can get the better view of the planet at least some of the time - and given this assumption, we might well ask why we would want to observe the planet through color filters.

The first reason is that the view of Mars shown above is never possible unless Mars is at, or very near, the zenith. This is because atmospheric refraction tends to smear images of the planets out into short, stubby spectra. This happens even when the seeing is perfect.  The result  looks roughly like this:

It's pretty clear that this view is not very good! (And imagine how bad it would look if we started with the more "typical" view just above.) Not only are there color fringes at the top and bottom of the planet (a blue crescent at the bottom and a red one at the top in this case), but the fringes even affect some of higher contrast boundaries between surface markings on the globe. And the contrast of some of the most subtle surface features is entirely wiped out! The view here was processed to simulate a Martian disk of moderate size while Mars was pretty high in the sky - 45 degrees, or halfway from the horizon to the zenith. When Mars is really large, and therefore at southern declinations, observers in the temperate latitudes of the northern hemisphere will encounter a good deal more refraction than this, since refraction increases as altitude decreases. The basic problem with refraction is that along the line of color smearing, somewhere between one and six or seven arcseconds of resolution can be totally lost - just thrown away. Since that's up to a fifth of the size of the Martian disk when it is at its largest, most people won't want to put up with that.

Observing with a properly selected color filter wipes out the problem that refraction poses, since it blocks a lot of wavelengths from the eyepiece and thus attenuates this smearing. This is perhaps the "first order" use for color filters - to defeat blurring caused by atmospheric refraction. Another beneficial effect is to also eliminate or attenuate such refractive effects caused by seeing. As the air boils over the planet, these refractive effects take place at small scales and can obliterate fine details. A filter won't completely eliminate the effects of seeing, of course, but it can be a modest help.

The other uses of color filters almost all relate to increasing the contrast between features on the planet's surface. In Mars' case, two colors of filter are particularly useful at bringing out the contrast between very common features. On the one hand, there are the dark surface markings of the planet, which appear gray or greenish against the reddish backgrounds; and on the other, there are the thin clouds that the Martian atmosphere produces consistently in certain areas and at certain times. The surface markings tend to be brought out best by the use of a red or orange filter, while a blue filter makes the polar caps, frosts, and atmospheric clouds pop out more clearly.

Since Maurizio took three images through color filters to arrive at his full-color view above, we can use the individual frames to demonstrate the effects of filtering the image. Below is the full-color view, and next to it the view through the red filter, followed by an image pointing out two specific areas:

Look carefully at the differences between these images. Remember that the red filtered image is in the middle. On the red image, the contrast between Sinus Meridiani (the club-shaped feature in the lower left part of the disk) and the deserts of Edom (the red deserts right in the middle of the disk) is about three times that in the integrated image. We get this by measuring pixel values (in the original FITs files) and plugging them into the formula above. A good deal of subtle detail is visible more clearly in the red image than in the color image, especially around the edges of small features at the top, left, and right of the disk. Even the fork in Sinus Meridiani is more clearly seen in red than in the color image. At the two areas indicated in the right-hand image, there is subtle detail in the red image that is lost in the color view.

In real-life observing conditions, the real view of the unfiltered red planet will not be as contrasty as depicted here. Compare this more typical representation:

In practice, the red-filtered view depicted on the right won't really be quite that sharp and the dark areas won't be that strongly etched - so you can mentally add a bit of blurring and washing out. But the additional details seen in the right hand image that are not present in the left hand image is pretty typical of what a red filter does in practice to reveal new detail on this hemisphere of the planet. The difference is due to two effects - increasing the intrinsic intensity contrast between the dark areas and the bright areas, and knocking down blurring caused by atmospheric refraction.

Moving on to the blue image, we can see that there are some substantial changes in it compared to both the color image and the red image:

Here the effects are pretty evident. There are clouds on the left hand limb. There is a bright bit of polar cap at the top. On the lower left limb is the frost-filled Hellas basin. And a small white spot near the right hand limb marks a cloud over Syrtis Major. These details are suspected in the colored view (except perhaps for the Syrtis Major cloud), but really come barreling out through the blue filter. But note that the surface markings are much less visible. Again, a comparison with our typical telescopic view is somewhat more instructive:

On the left-hand image it is hard to even see the clouds and frost features in some cases, and where they can be seen, they are far from clear.

How It Is Done

The examples given above are grounded in physics. The image formed by the telescope with the filter is the same, whether the eye looks at the image through an eyepiece, or a CCD camera captures the view electronically.

But there is one substantial difference between a CCD camera and an eyeball - the eyeball sees in color! Indeed, when you put red and blue filters in the telescope to look at Mars, you will see something roughly like this:

Here is where certain observing skills come into play - and where you have to do a little work to get the benefits of the filtered view. The human eye is used to looking for slight differences of color - and on apparently large objects, such as paintings, the eye is very good at it. It is not quite so good at it on small objects, especially bright glaring ones in the middle of a dark background. So the first thing that typically happens when you put in a color filter is that your eye and brain see a big red ball - or a big blue ball, as the case may be.

For some people, the effect can at first be distracting enough that it wipes out any benefit received by the filter. Even when severe atmospheric refraction is being eliminated by a weak yellow filter, a few observers can't get past the weak yellow color of the image to enjoy the increased resolution. And when the red filter is put in, the "rose colored glasses" syndrome is certainly quite common.

The solution to the problem is to have some patience, and very consciously do two things. The first is to acclimatize your eye to the view. The average human being takes about ten to fifteen minutes to adjust to wearing colored glasses, and in my experience the average observer takes about that long to get used to the colored view of the planet. So the first step is simply to give it time - keep on looking at the red (or blue) dot. The more you practice, the quicker this acclimatization will occur later on. After some twenty years of doing this, I can get used to any filtered view (except strong violet) in less than a minute, and most planetary observers share this experience.

The second thing to do is to begin to train your eye to see differences in brightness, and completely ignore differences in color. This is not always easy to do, to start. In effect, it is like training yourself to see the world as though your eye were a black & white television camera. They key to it is to think monochromatically. The whole image is going to be red (or blue) when filtered - so look for bright red and dark red, but don't go in search of orange and ochre, because you won't see it. When you turn your attention to a particular part of the planet, ask yourself consciously whether that part is brighter than or darker than the surrounding areas. After a few sessions, doing this will become second nature.

By the time you are done with your first session, you will have spent a half hour or so looking at the planet through a colored filter. (Or perhaps an hour or more looking through two or three different filters.) When you are done, take the filter out and look at the "natural" view. The people who spend time on it and cultivate their "black and white eye" will notice the washed-out appearance of the unfiltered image immediately. Areas where there were new details in the filtered view should be pretty evident, and sometimes - armed with the knowledge gained by the filtered view - the observer will barely make out those details in the unfiltered view.

But it is worth emphasizing that these benefits will not be enjoyed unless significant time is spent on the project. Half an hour per color is about right for those just starting out. Those who give the color filter two minutes to work their magic will almost always lose out.

By the time you have begun to cultivate these skills, it will be evident that using color filters is not really an aesthetic enterprise. It really doesn't do much of anything to make the view more romantic or more artistic. The technique is strictly a tool, and the tool is designed to increase the amount of detail that can be seen on a planet, or else to increase the ease of seeing such detail as is already visible without a filter. Speaking for myself, I like the aesthetics, and I also like getting the details - so filters, and the special skills needed to use them to their potential - are parts of my kit.

 
 
host
32 posts
Re: Filters 
Posted: 29 Dec 07 11:55 AM
  
Color Filters
Color filters are used for planetary and lunar viewing, and some are known to enhance images when doing black and white
astrophotography. Each filter is listed by its color and its Wratten number, a number designated by Kodak for photography filters. These filters are fairly inexpensive, ranging from $15 to $20. A good basic starting set would include a yellow filter (either #12 yellow or #8 light yellow), a red filter (#23A light red, #21 orange, or #25 deep red), a green (#56), and a blue (#80A). In general, the yellow and red filters increase contrast between light and dark surface areas on Mars. The yellow filter also works well for improving detail on the moon, for blocking UV light when doing black and white photography, and for enhancing comet dust tails and heads. The orange filter brings out cloud bands, festoons, and the Great Red Spot on Jupiter. The blue and green filters bring out the Martian haze and cloud layers. The green accentuates details around the polar ice caps as well. For Jupiter, a blue or green
filter enhances the Great Red Spot and brings out the darker cloud bands. A blue filter brings out the detail on Saturn and increases the contrast of comet tails. Finally, a #58 green filter will block street light while passing the wavelengths needed to view emission nebulae.
If you have a small-aperture telescope (under 6") try out the lighter colored filters since they block less light than their darker cousins. Remember that the difference filters make in your viewing is subtle most of the time. Something that is not there at all in your eyepiece without a filter will not jump out screaming at you when you add one. They are, however, an important accessory if you enjoy planetary viewing (and who doesn't like that?), it is just to your benefit to realize that your best asset is a trained eye, made so from lots of viewing hours tucked under your belt... with and without filters.
Neutral-Density Filter
The first time you look at the moon, you eyes will be dazzled by the bright light. A neutral density filter will block a good portion of the light passing through your telescope without adding a color tint, and all of a sudden, details in craters and maria pop into view. A neutral density filter also works well on bright planets like Venus, allowing the viewer to see the phases more clearly.
Polarizing Filter
Polarizing filters are two filters that are mounted together in a specially machined cell, and when one is rotated, light transmission can be varied between five and twenty-five percent. This allows the viewer to vary the brightness of the moon with regard to what phase it is in and what magnification is being used to view the surface.
Light pollution/deep sky filters:
Unfortunately, light pollution is a problem in most areas of the United States. Planetary and lunar viewing are not affected by mild light pollution because of the brightness level of the objects being observed. However, as soon as the viewer ventures out of the solar system and into the wonders of deep sky, the view is diminished. Light pollution filters help to block out the wavelengths of light most commonly used to light our city streets, and depending on the filter's transmission characteristics, allow wavelengths to pass that are most commonly found in nebulae and galaxies. These cost substantially more than color or ND filters, but can mean the difference between seeing an object and not seeing it.
You can buy these filters in several sizes. They are available in .965", 1.25", 2.00", and Cassegrain rear cell. The rear cell filter allow you to screw it directly onto the back of your telescope before adding the diagonal and eyepiece. This means that you don't have to switch the filter from eyepiece to eyepiece... a convenience if you need to use the filter all or most of the time. There are lots of deep-sky filters available on the market. The most common are "Broadband" and "Narrowband". The Broadband is the best choice if you have moderate light pollution and want help on the largest variety of objects. The Narrowband filter works best if you are in an area of high light pollution and have a larger-apertured telescope, or if you want to enhance certain nebulas (the Veil Nebula, for instance, tends to magically pop into view with this filter, especially used in conjunction with dark skies). The Narrowband filter, however, blocks out too much to be very useful in astrophotography. Use the Broadband Filter when you want the benefits of a light pollution filter in connection with your astrophotography.

Solar filters
It is possible to observe the sun with a telescope, but certain precautions must be taken. The only safe solar filters on the market
today consist of either a full-apertured glass filter coated with a nickel-chromium alloy called Inconel, or a metal-coated Mylar material. Both of these are mounted in a cell that then fits over the front end of the telescope. The Mylar filters give a blue image of the sun, which can be corrected with the use of a #23A filter, while glass filters show a truer orange/yellow view of the sun. These filters allow the viewer to watch sunspots and eclipses safely. Do not go out and buy yourself a sheet of Mylar that you can get at a
local hardware or auto-supply store and make yourself a solar filter! It is not safe. Use only solar filters that have been manufactured for the express purpose of viewing the sun through a telescope! Supervise children at all times when viewing the Sun, or when viewing in the daytime. A quick mistaken pass by the Sun can cause damage. Cover any finderscope that you have on your telescope before doing solar viewing. Some department store telescopes still come with a dark green filter marked "Sun" or "Solar". These screw into your eyepiece like any normal colored filter, and are VERY DANGEROUS. Throw them away immediately. They take the full brunt of the Sun's heat and light, and can crack or parts can melt, allowing the filter to fall away and let the full force of the Sun's light into your eye. Inspect your solar filter before each use for pinholes (especially if you buy one that is not glass) and defects.
Remember not to stare at the Sun when you are aligning the telescope for a solar viewing session. Watch the shadow of the
telescope on the ground. When the shadow gets the most narrow, and you can see the sharpest, most distinct image of your scope on the ground, the Sun will be very close to your eyepiece field. Then you can look around from there. There is another filter, called an H-Alpha filter, which allows the viewer to see solar prominences and flares that are usually only seen by the eye during a total eclipse of the sun. The H-Alpha filter works by blocking all wavelengths but the one emitted by hydrogen atoms. This accessory is not cheap, costing between $500 and $6000, depending on the bandwidth of the filter.


Warning: Solar viewing is fun, but it is dangerous without the correct
filter. The light from the sun is approximately one million times greater
than that of the full moon, and just a second of unprotected exposure to
the retina can cause complete or partial blindness

 
  
   Astronomy instruments  Telescopes  Filters... 
   
   
   

Forum HomeSearch   

Copyright 2000-2009 DubaiAstronomy.com   Terms Of Use  Privacy Statement